It's Really Happening...I'm Leaving My Life in Korea!

This is incredibly late, but yes, my time in Korea is coming to an end.

It's sad and happy all at the same time. Bittersweet.

I have been very involved in hiring my replacement and taking care of communication and documentation. Today I completed the last stage and booked her flight to Korea. It's really weird being on the other side of that email, two years later.

Korea isn't perfect, and neither were my two years here, but I wouldn't trade them for anything. I've experienced a lot and I think I've grown up a bit as well. I met some pretty cool people and had experiences I never thought I would.

It is time to say goodbye though. I know that it's the right time for me.

On to new adventures!

I'm not sure what they will be yet, but that's the beauty of it.

I might have a few posts to come yet, but if you read my blog, I thank you!

Blessings.
xo

Crossing Boarders...DMZ Tour

A couple weekends ago, a friend joined me in taking part in a tour of the DMZ. It's the Demilitarized zone of South Korea and North Korea. This place has always interested me and I am glad that I had a chance to experience it before heading back home.

This tour is very popular and there are a number of companies that offer the tour. We went with the USO tour as it is highly recommended and one of the cheaper options as well. We started by leaving Seoul at 9am and took an hour bus ride to Paju.

The tour has a lot of restrictions of what you can and cannot take photos of, understandably. I have to say as well, after taking the tour, I feel a little uncomfortable putting a bunch of pictures of North Korea on the internet. If you know me and are interested, I can definitely show you the photos in person.

Out tour's plan was as follows:
1) The Third Infiltration Tunnel
2) Dorasan Train Station
3) Dora Obeservatory
4) JSA (Joint Security Area)

Just as a disclaimer, I feel fairly uneducated in the history of North and South Korea so the info I give you is just what I can remember from my trip and tidbits of info I have retained from research. Obviously there are much better outlets for information.

1) The Third Infiltration Tunnel
Our guide mentioned that there are said to be 20 tunnels that the North Koreans made in attempts to infiltrate South Korean soil. They learned this from a defector. However, they have only been able to locate 4 of them. This tunnel is called the third infiltration tunnel because it was the third one they found. Makes sense. I believe it was found in the late seventies (if I remember correctly). The North tried to pass this tunnel off as being a coal mine, but their efforts to disguise it were pretty awful as the black coating still comes off on your fingertips today. The way down to the tunnel is on a slope that has about a 12 degree incline (or decline depending on how you look at it). It's not too bad actually, but coming up tends to be a little difficult. Good exercise! I had to duck for most of the journey because the tunnels were made quite shallow. We ended our travel at the third blockade, and they had cut a small square into the blockade so that we could see the 2nd one as well. It was interesting to see where they tried to get through. After the tunnel, we were free to take touristy photos of certain displays such as the photo at the top of this post. There was also a museum that was quite interesting.

2) Dorasan Train Station
All the way up until 2003, you could take a train from Seoul, South Korea to Pyeongyang, North Korea. That way people could visit their family members that lived in the other part of Korea. Unfortunately there was a horrific incident that stopped this from being possible. A civilian woman ended up walking in a questionable area and was killed by a North Korean soldier. This increased tensions between the two nations and entrance into North Korea from South Korea was prohibited. You can still use the train to get from Seoul to Dorasan station, just no further. This station made me feel the hope that some South Koreans have that unification will happen. They have this slogan that says "Not the last station from the south, but the first station toward the north."

3) Dora Observatory
The Dora observatory is pretty self explainable, but we were given a panoramic view of North Korean land. You can notice the difference in building styles from north to south. Throughout the whole day I found myself interested in how quiet it seemed on the northern side. I wonder what it's like to live over there.

4) JSA (Joint Security Area)
In my opinion, the JSA was the best part of the tour. It was a 2 hour tour, but probably the most remarkable. We started with a slideshow presentation from one of the US soldiers stationed at the JSA. It gave a brief history of the area and explained where we would see on the tour.

The most memorable event that happened was the axe murder incident. One southern side camp was surrounded on three sides by the north and the next southern group's view was blocked by a large tree, so they decided the cut the tree down to ensure the safety of their comrades. Unfortunately, the cutting of this tree caused a conflict with the northern soldiers and two soldiers on the southern side ended up getting axed to death. One was a lieutenant. This caused there to be a distinct line as to where the south and north can set up camps.

From this presentation, we were taken to what has been remarked as "the scariest place in the world". The actual division line. Everything was done very procedurally. We had to always walk in single file and we could never take photos of the South Korean side, just the North Korean side and only when the officer allowed us. The South Korean soldiers stand in what is known as a taekwondo pose that appears as if they are ready to act at a moment's notice. You are not allowed to get within a foot of these soldiers. We were informed that if we got closer than that, they would forcefully push us away. There were a couple meeting houses in between the north and south side where meetings are held to discuss negotiations and possible unification. One half of the room is in South Korea and the other is in North Korea. I can say that I have stood on North Korean soil. There was one soldier who was standing right in the middle. We were able to take photos of and with him, but it felt a little awkward. It's such a serious and intense place that it just doesn't seem right to smile in a photograph.

After leaving that area we visited and drove by a number of other places. There are people who live in the JSA, in a village called "Taesong-dong" but they are under strict security and cannot be outside at specific times. They also must stay in the area a certain number of days in a year. They cannot relocate but they are exempt from taxes and the compulsory military service. They do a lot of farming and must be protected while doing so.

There is also a bridge that is called "The Bridge of No Return." When the end of the Korean war was approaching, the soldiers on both sides were taken to the area of the bridge and were able to choose where they wanted to live. North or South. The only consequence of going to the other side was that they were not allowed to come back.

We were also taken to a point where we could look out at North Korea again. This time it was a closer view. They have this very odd place called "Propaganda Village". It's a fake village where no one lives, but is there to look as if people do. It is meant to reflect economic success and to lure defectors from the south. There are even lights on a timer to be really convincing. Propaganda and Taesong villages had a very interesting flag-off, where Taesong started by erecting a very tall 300-something meter flagpole. The north retaliated by erecting their own flagpole at 500-something feet, and it was at that time the tallest in the world. The actual size of the flag was also enlarged to be bigger than the south.
One of the more frightening pieces of information we received while looking out at North Korea was the mountains we could see at the end of our view. Our soldier guide told us that those mountains hold North Korea's artillery and there is enough there to eliminate Seoul in 9 minutes. It made me glad to live in a southern city.

All in all it was a really interesting and eye-opening tour. It really made me appreciate growing up in Canada and being able to go back there soon. It's not that I feel unsafe in Korea. I actually generally feel safer than back home, but I still feel really privileged and happy with the life I've been able to lead thus far. It also shows how far the south has come since the war.

If you're in Korea, I suggest doing the tour.

The Visitor

This story is about a really lucky girl who was ever so delighted to have her absolutely wonderful friend visit her while living abroad.

Yes, I am the lucky girl. I'm also really cheesy, but you probably already know that.

So here I am living in South Korea for almost 2 years now and as much as I like it here, I never expected that someone would come visit me. I mean, the flight itself is enough to turn one away. However, I underestimated my loved ones and I have had a visit from my parents and now from the lovely Bronwyn.

I kept having moments of thinking "I can't believe I am looking at Bronwyn and talking to her and hanging out with her, and I'm not dreaming." It was really great to just hang out and tour around the country a little bit.

Her first stop was Seoul. I was able to head up there on the weekend, but she was on her own for the most part. Seoul was a lot of fun just hanging out and seeing the sights. One thing I have now realized is that I have become this insane planner when I go on trips and I like to have everything mapped out and instructions on how to get from A to B all prepared. So, of course I made big plans for the Saturday and Sunday that I would be with Bw. Not nearly all of them were accomplished, but I'd rather be over prepared than under, right? Many of the places we went to I had already been to, but I never get tired of them. Even Gyeongbokgung palace. I have been there 4 times now and I am still not sick of it. We did however, go somewhere new for me, which was City Hall. The old city hall has been turned into a library and the new one has walls of greenery on the inside. It was really neat. We also went to a neat pub called the Sherlock Holmes Pub. It had a bunch of paraphernalia and delicious beverages. Unfortunately I had to go back to work on Monday morning so I left Bronwyn in Seoul for a few days where she saw some more sights and toured the DMZ. Wednesday evening she arrived in the very country town of Namchang. On Thursday she headed to Busan while I worked, and Friday she visited my school and took a bit of a rest.

The following weekend was a special one in Korea. It was Korean thanksgiving or "Chuseok". That meant a 5 day holiday for most people living here. We took advantage of this and went on a trip to the south-western end of Korea. We started in Boseong and made our way east. In Boseong we visited the very famous and wonderful Green Tea Plantation. The plantation was humungous and such a great sight to see. We almost skipped going here because of time constraints, but I am really glad we made it there. We even sampled some green tea beverages after wandering through the fields. We then headed to Suncheon, where our accommodations were located and where we would spend the following day.
Getting to the traditional Korean guesthouse wasn't a difficult feat, but trying to find the entrance to it was. Unfortunately it was rather dark by now. First we spotted the house gate that had "guesthouse" written on it, but it was locked. I was able to flag someone down, but they said that it was the house
behind them. We did find the rooms, with a sign that said "Welcome Emma Hurst" so we knew we were in the right place. However, we couldn't find the office where we should check in. So, we checked the door to our room and it wasn't locked so we let ourselves in. A few moments later, the owner found us and I was somewhat able to explain what had happened, though I think she just thought I was a little cooky. The guesthouse was nice, and we slept well after a long day of travelling.

Our day in Suncheon was spent at the Ecological Park and at the EXPO Garden. Both were quite beautiful. It still amazes me how small South Korea is on the map, but how many beautiful and amazing places there are to see in it. I think I've travelled around quite a bit in the last couple years, but there is still so much more out there. It really is an amazing country to see. Anyways, back to Suncheon. We had to do some hiking and a lot of sweating, but making it to the top to really see the wetlands was worth it. It was even worth the tumble I took on the way down, scraping my knee up a little bit. Battle wounds I guess. The garden was huge and also a great sight, but different from the eco-park. Everything was pristine and well maintained. There were a ton of themed gardens from a range of different countries.



Our last destination for a couple days was Yeosu. It was a bit of a relief to be staying somewhere for two consecutive nights, so that we wouldn't have to carry our backpacks with us everywhere. We did have lots of luck with lockers being available though thus far. Our first day in Yeosu was pretty busy and jam-packed. We saw a lot of the main sights and even ventured to the island of Odong. We also made it to Dolsan Park as the sun was setting and saw a nice view of the bridge. Our second day was a lot more relaxed as we just took a walk around the area of our hotel and tried some Bing-su (shaved ice dessert). The we headed to the train station to get ready to return to Ulsan.

Our trip was really fun and great to be away from city life. The next day was some more travelling, but this time it was back to Seoul to send Bronwyn on her way back home. The hotel we stayed at was pretty nice and the beds were amazingly comfortable. I really didn't want to get out of bed the next morning, but I had to take the KTX back to Ulsan and actually work haha. The night before was fun, ho

wever, we grabbed some dinner, sang in a karaoke room, and ate ice cream.

It was really difficult to see Bw off at Seoul Station knowing she was going back home to Canada. I wanted to ditch everything and go with her. But, it is nice to know that I will see her and my home soon. Thank you for visiting me and having such fun together :)

Soo Casa Hair in Busan - What a treat

I got my hair highlighted on my visit back home, and when the hairstylist reminded me that I'd have to get my roots touched up pretty regularly, I just said "yeah, yeah" and shrugged it off.

Fast forward 8 months and my hair was a mess haha. Normally, back home this wouldn't be a problem, but while living in Korea it can be hard for foreign women to get a decent haircut let alone a BLONDE highlight root touch-up. There have been so many horror stories about dye-jobs and I myself have had a bad haircut here.
Once I got to the point where my hair was driving me crazy, I did a little research and stumbled across the place 'Soo Casa'. I could only find good reviews so I thought it was worth a shot.

It was a little tricky to find, because the sign for the shop is not on the main street, it's behind some flashy cell phone stores. I did find it before I wandered too far though, thankfully. She speaks perfect English and I read that she worked in Canada for 6 years on this show called "Style by Jury" on the Women's network. She was very kind, not very talkative, but I prefer it that way. She did comment on how long my roots were by saying "it's about time" hahaha. She even had English rag-mags for me to read. I can't remember the last time I read one of those. I haven't been missing much, but it was still nice to flip through a magazine. She did a great job and gave me a well needed trim as well. It hasn't been 8 months since a hair cut, but it has been a while.

Overall it was a really pleasant experience. It was just me and her in the shop and I was in and out in a couple hours. The price wasn't as outrageous as I was expecting, but a little more than I would pay back home.

If you're living in or around Busan, and are a blondie, she's definitely the one to go to.

Blind Faith in Foreigners

I usually only post about exciting things I have experienced, but I had an interesting week and wanted to share some thoughts.

My director recently hired a new teacher at our school. She is Korean and fresh out of university. She started on Monday. My director was aware that she had no teaching experience, but decided to take on the task of becoming her mentor and spending time teaching her the ropes. This week she sat in on all of our classes to observe the ways of the school and how each teacher runs her class. It's weird being watched like that, but I got over it quickly. As the week progressed, she was given a few classes a day to prepare a lesson for and run the class herself with the director watching and helping out where necessary. We have a new schedule and the director took herself off the schedule completely. I was a little surprised, but I knew that she has wanted to cut back so she can focus on the running of the school more.

But, this is not fully the case. She is going to spend a month with our new teacher to watch her teach and help her out. Don't get me wrong, I think it's great and I am happy that she is putting the care into her new investment. But it makes me think. I arrived and was given a brief rundown of the runnings of the school and then just thrown to the wolves. No training. No observing. No being observed. I learned a lot being immersed like this, but it's really interesting to see the difference in proceedings when hiring a foreign teacher opposed to a Korean teacher.

I had a measly 20 hours of experience when I arrived, and a simple 100-hour training course. But that, with the fact that I speak English fluently seemed to be enough.

This isn't a rant or anything, just an observation. I wonder if it's the same at other private academies. My dad said that my director just knew I was going to be awesome at my job so I should take it as a compliment. Maybe he's right. Maybe he's my personal cheerleader. But more likely, there is just this intrinsic blind faith put in foreigners who come to this country to teach. It's kind of shocking and a little scary.

Rock, Paper, Scissors...Sword?!

This is just a cute little story about what happened today.

I was sitting at the bus stop waiting for my bus to go downtown, when three boys all under the age of 10 came up and said hello. It was cute. Then they challenged me to a game of rock, paper, scissors which was all very fun, but then they started introducing the one finger move which apparently means sword and beats everything. We played this for about 3 minutes until my bus came and we said our goodbyes.

This was just a brief moment of fun but it really brightened my day. Something that probably would never happen back home. I'm starting to really cherish moments like these.

Daewangam Park

If you read my blog, you know that I've got about 4 months left before I am heading back to Canada. With the end drawing near, I have created a "Korea Bucket List" and some of the items are places here in Ulsan. There really is so much to see even in your own city, that it's hard to see everything. There is this park, called Daewangam that I have heard is really nice. I can now confirm, it is really nice!

It's way out in Dong-gu, the eastern part of Ulsan, and it takes me almost 2 hours to get there via bus from Namchang. I got off the bus at Ilsan Beach, and met my friend. As you walk along the beach, you can see all kinds of restaurants, coffee shops, and arcades. Now that it is in the middle of summer, there are quite a few families hanging out at the beach, swimming or lounging. As you walk to the end of the beach, there is a big set of stairs heading up into a forested area that is known as Daewangam Park. There are a number of trails you can walk around and see. My friend and I chose the A course on our way to the lighthouse, and the famous bridge, and the B course back since we were getting hungry and wanted the easiest route back to the beach.

The rocks along the water and the trail, are really unique and have a reddish tinge to them. It was a super beautiful area and a nice walk. It was really humid when we went, but being surrounded by trees helps to keep cool.

Once you reach the bridge that connects some large rocks together, it gets a little more crowded with people, but the wind there is fantastic. You feel rewarded for enduring the humid trail by a nice constant cool wind. Hearing the waves on the rocks is also nice and soothing.

The most exciting thing I saw there was a couple of cats hanging out on the rocks and playing around. It was a cute sight and they seemed so out of place.

Overall this is a great site to see in Ulsan, and I would highly recommend it.